Thursday, July 23, 1998

Hannah Jumper back in business

HANNAH JUMPER

Bearskin Neck, Rockport

Hours: Dinner nightly from 5 to 9; from 5 to 9:30 or 10 on weekends; Lunch daily from 11:30. Deck hours may differ slightly.

The Hannah Jumper, a picturesquely situated restaurant on Rockport's Bearskin Neck, has reopened. It was closed last year, to the dismay of those who believe view and charm are half the fun of dining out.

The other good news is that the restaurant is using the outdoor deck, which spans the entire top of the building, for dining. There's a more casual feel upstairs, and an abbreviated menu. Also, an awning protects diners from passing showers. But it's not the kind of restaurant, upstairs or downstairs, that calls for formal attire.

The Hannah Jumper looks out over Rockport's charming inner harbor and Bearskin Neck. The menu is seafood oriented, and prices are very reasonable. Those who wish to enjoy a glass of wine or a beer must bring their own.

We tried ordering fish and chips upstairs, but were told, unequivocally, "No." Our party moved downstairs and in no time, was enjoying a fine version of this popular seaside dish. The fish was dressed in a crunchy but light coating, wasn't oily, and came with a tasty cole slaw made with red and green cabbage.

Among the other dishes we tried was the clam chowder. Since just about every tourist who visits Rockport orders chowder, we decided it would be remiss not to check it out. It was creamy and made with bits of chopped clam, as so many chowders are these days -- no offensive big soft bellies to upset the squeamish.

The garden salads, served with many of the entrees, are pleasantly fresh and full of veggies.

The 12 ounce sirloin marinated in Jack Daniels ($16) was tender and delicious. No one was able to detect the Jack Daniels but it no doubt contributed to the super flavor and texture.

Lobster alfredo ($18) was a rich, creamy dish full of chunks of lobster. And a piece of grilled swordfish was on the thin and dry side.

The waitstaff is very friendly and helpful. We noticed that they paid a lot of attention to their customers, and didn't mind sharing a smile or a quick and humorous anecdote.