Thursday, July 23, 1998

Homemade chicken pies in Danvers

By Carla Celona

Have you made a from-scratch chicken pie lately? No, you say? Do you even know anyone who does this anymore? Well, Harrows does. This well-known and long-established Reading institution has just opened in Danvers Square -- the first expansion move in the company's 65-plus-year history.

Chicken pies are still filled and fluted at the Reading headquarters, but brought fresh daily to the little store on Maple Street. A loyal following is already beating a path to the storefront for a fix of farm-fresh flavor. Pies are either all white-meat chicken or chicken with vegetables (carrots and peas). The homemade gravy enriches a delicious stick-to-your-ribs comfort food.

According to Wally and Dan Arsenault, brothers and co-owners of the family enterprise, the pies come in four sizes, feeding one or a family with guests. Prices range from $4.40 to $15.75. Customers can pick up a chilled pie and cook it themselves at home. Or, one can call ahead to have the pie steaming and ready for the table. Pies will keep two or three days in the refrigerator, about two months in the freezer.

Dan, whose parents operated the chicken farm and pie business for decades, says June and July are the slower times for this cold-weather favorite. So it was the perfect time to try out the new Danvers satellite store. He expects to have all the kinks worked out by the time high season arrives with the fall. "From then through the holidays, we're really busy," he says, "and we hope to open more stores in the future. We make an all-natural product with all fresh ingredients and no preservatives, so we're not competing with frozen products at all. We make our pies today and sell no later than tomorrow, and people appreciate that kind of real value."

Taste that old-time value at Harrows, 46 Maple St., Danvers 01923. Call 978-750-8881 or stop by daily from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.